The last Lodi Sultan moved his capital to Agra in 1504, and although he was defeated in 1526 by Babur, the founder of the Mogul empire, it remained Indias premier city for almost two centuries. The citys greatest days were during the reign of Baburs grandson, Akbar the Great (1556-1605) who built Agra Fort, and although Shah Jahan created a new Capital in Delhi his heart remained here. In 1631 he chose Agra as the spot to construct the worlds greatest monument to love - the Taj Mahal. For many, Agra represents the best and worst of India. The city is a daunting sensory experience for even the most hardened traveller; the streets are foul, the air polluted and, particularly in the alleyways around the Taj Mahal, you will come across the most persistent touts and rip-off merchants in the East. Despite this, its magnificent sights alone make a visit to India worthwhile. Agra, along with Delhi and Jaipur, forms the Golden Triangle, Indias favourite tourist route. Situated just 125 miles (200km) south of Delhi, it makes an easy day trip by train. However it is worth spending at least a night here just to truly appreciate the wondrous Taj Mahal and its many moods; at dawn the mausoleum changes from grey to pink to brilliant-white.